Most clothing brand founders encounter around 60 unfamiliar technical terms in their first three months of working with a manufacturer. A misunderstood term at the wrong moment — confusing GSM with denier, or CMT with full-service, or a lab dip with a strike off — can produce a sample order that is technically correct and commercially useless.
This glossary covers 100+ terms used in UK and international clothing manufacturing, organised alphabetically by section. Terms marked with ★ are among the most commonly misunderstood by brands new to production.
For a broader introduction to the UK manufacturing landscape, see the Complete Guide to Clothing Manufacturers in UK.
Contents
Post Highlights
- Manufacturing terminology is functional, not decorative — knowing the correct term prevents specification errors, contract ambiguities, and production disputes
- The most frequently misunderstood cluster of terms for new brands: CMT vs full-package, FOB vs CIF vs DDP, tech pack vs spec sheet, lab dip vs strike off, and grading vs sizing
- This glossary covers production methods, commercial and pricing terms, fabric and material terms, quality and compliance terms, and construction and finishing terms
- Terms are organised A–Z in six sections for reference use; a UK-specific terms section follows
Why Every Clothing Brand Needs to Know Manufacturing Terminology
The technical vocabulary of clothing manufacturing is a shared language between brand and factory. When a brand does not know the language, communication errors occur at every stage — in the brief, in the spec pack, in the sample evaluation, and in the bulk order review.
The practical cost: a brand that confuses “shrinkage allowance” with “ease allowance” will receive a sample that fits before washing and fails after. A brand that does not know the difference between a lab dip and a strike off will waste two to three weeks in the development cycle waiting for the wrong document. A brand that does not understand FOB versus DDP pricing will build a landed cost model on the wrong number.
Terminology fluency is also a credibility signal. A brand that communicates in accurate manufacturing language is taken more seriously by factories, receives more precise quotes, and is more likely to have its specifications followed correctly.
This glossary is a working reference. Use it before sending a tech pack, reviewing a quote, or approving a sample.
A — C Terms
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) ★ | A statistical sampling standard (ISO 2859) that defines the maximum number of defects permitted in a batch before the batch is rejected. AQL 2.5 is the standard for most clothing. The lower the number, the stricter the inspection. |
| Back tack | A short row of reverse stitching at the beginning and end of a seam to prevent unravelling. Required on all load-bearing seams. |
| Bartack | A dense, short reinforcement stitch applied at high-stress points — belt loops, pocket openings, zip ends. Standard on denim and workwear. |
| Bias cut | Fabric cut at 45° to the selvedge. Produces a garment that drapes differently and stretches slightly. Common in lingerie, eveningwear, and slip dresses. Requires more fabric than straight-grain cutting. |
| BOM (Bill of Materials) ★ | A complete itemised list of every component required to produce a garment — fabric, lining, interfacing, thread, buttons, zips, labels, hangtags, and packaging. An accurate BOM is required before a factory can quote. |
| Bonded fabric | Two or more fabric layers joined using adhesive or thermal bonding rather than stitching. Common in technical outerwear. |
| Bound seam | A seam where the raw edge is enclosed within a separate strip of fabric (the binding). Common in tailoring and premium casual wear. |
| CMT (Cut, Make, Trim) ★ | A production method where the brand supplies all fabric, trims, and materials, and the factory provides only the labour to cut, sew, and finish the garment. Contrast with full-package or ODM. The factory charges a CMT rate per unit. |
| Colourway | One colour combination version of a style. A jacket produced in black, navy, and olive has three colourways. Each colourway may require a separate lab dip. |
| Construction | The method by which a garment is assembled — seam types, stitch types, panel structure, and finishing. A spec pack must specify construction method in full. |
| Consumption | The total amount of fabric required to produce one garment, usually expressed in metres. Consumption is calculated from the marker and used to cost the fabric element of a BOM. |
| Contrast | A fabric, thread, or trim that differs from the main body fabric in colour or material. Used as a design detail. Must be specified in the BOM and the tech pack. |
| Cover stitch | A stitch that covers the raw edge of a hem from the outside while creating a flat seam on the inside. Standard finish on jersey hems and activewear. |
| Critical path ★ | The production schedule mapping every stage from design sign-off to delivery, with dates and responsible parties at each stage. A broken critical path is the most common cause of late delivery. |
| CIF (Cost, Insurance, Freight) | A pricing term where the seller covers the cost of goods, insurance, and freight to the named destination port. Responsibility transfers to the buyer at the port. Contrast with FOB and DDP. |
D — F Terms
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| DDP (Delivered Duty Paid) ★ | A pricing term where the seller bears all costs and risks of delivering goods to the buyer’s named location, including import duties. The most complete cost basis for landed cost comparison. |
| Denier | A unit of measurement for the linear mass density of synthetic fibres — the mass in grams per 9,000 metres of a single fibre. Lower denier = finer, lighter fabric. 70 denier nylon is lighter than 210 denier nylon. |
| Dye lot | A batch of fabric dyed in a single production run. Fabric from different dye lots may vary in shade even within the same colourway. The spec pack should specify that bulk fabric must be from the same dye lot. |
| Ease allowance | Additional measurement built into a pattern beyond the body measurement to allow for movement and comfort. Not the same as shrinkage allowance. |
| End-of-roll | Fabric remaining at the end of a production roll, typically at reduced price. Suitable for sampling and small-run production but requires careful dye lot management. |
| EXW (Ex Works) | A pricing term where the buyer collects goods from the factory gate and bears all costs from that point. The lowest-cost quoted basis, and the highest-risk for the buyer. |
| Face fabric | The outer fabric of a garment — the fabric that is visible and forms the primary material of the design. Specified separately from lining fabric in the BOM. |
| Flat-felled seam | A seam where both raw edges are enclosed within the seam itself, producing a strong, flat finish visible on the outside. Standard on denim jeans and workwear seams. |
| FOB (Free On Board) ★ | A pricing term where the seller is responsible for delivering goods to the named port of shipment and loading them onto the vessel. Risk transfers to the buyer once goods are on board. The most common offshore pricing basis. |
| French seam | A seam where the raw edges are fully enclosed within a secondary seam, producing a clean finish on both faces of the fabric. Common in sheer and fine fabrics. |
| Full-package (FP) ★ | A production method where the factory sources all materials, components, and trims, and delivers a finished, packaged garment. The brand provides design and specification only. Contrast with CMT. Also called full-service or OEM in some contexts. |
| Fusible (interfacing) | An interfacing material with a heat-activated adhesive on one side, bonded to the garment fabric using an iron or press. Used to add structure and stability — collar stands, facings, waistbands. |
G — L Terms
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| Garment dye | A production method where the finished, assembled garment is dyed after construction rather than using pre-dyed fabric. Produces a worn, relaxed appearance with natural tonal variation. |
| Gauge (knitwear) | The number of needles per unit of width on a knitting machine. Higher gauge = finer, more tightly knitted fabric. 3-gauge knitwear is chunky; 14-gauge is fine. |
| GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) | The leading international standard for organic fibre processing — covering from harvesting of raw materials through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing to labelling. Certification required from an approved body. |
| Grading ★ | The process of scaling a base pattern up and down to produce a full size range. Grading rules define how much each measurement increases or decreases per size increment. Incorrect grading produces fit problems that cannot be corrected at sampling. |
| GSM (grams per square metre) ★ | The standard unit of fabric weight. A lightweight woven cotton is typically 120–150 GSM. A midweight jersey is typically 200–250 GSM. Heavier GSM fabrics are more durable and less transparent; lighter GSM fabrics drape more and pack smaller. |
| Hand (handfeel) | The tactile quality of a fabric — how it feels when touched. Not a technical specification but should be described qualitatively in the brief and confirmed physically at fabric approval. |
| Hem allowance | The amount of extra fabric beyond the finished edge, folded under and stitched to form the hem. The spec pack should specify hem allowance in millimetres. |
| Interfacing | A secondary material applied to the wrong side of a face fabric to add structure, stability, or shape. Can be fusible (iron-on) or sew-in. |
| ISO 9001 | The international standard for quality management systems. A factory with ISO 9001 certification operates a formally documented quality management process subject to third-party audit. |
| Jacquard | A woven or knitted fabric produced on a Jacquard loom, capable of complex patterns, textures, and colour combinations woven directly into the structure of the fabric. |
| Lab dip ★ | A small swatch of fabric dyed to a specified colour reference (typically a Pantone number) for approval before bulk fabric production. Lab dip approval is required before bulk fabric is ordered. Contrast with strike off. |
| Lay plan (marker) | A schematic diagram showing how pattern pieces are arranged on the fabric for cutting to minimise waste. Marker efficiency directly affects fabric consumption and cost. |
| Lead time ★ | The total elapsed time from order confirmation (or sample approval) to finished goods in the buyer’s warehouse. See the Lead Time: UK vs Offshore Clothing Factories article for full data. |
| Lining | A secondary fabric layer inside a garment — used to improve drape, conceal internal construction, add warmth, or make a garment easier to put on. Specified separately from face fabric in the BOM. |
| Lockstitch | The most common machine stitch — two threads interlocked at the centre of the fabric layers to form a flat, secure seam. Not inherently stretchy. |
M — P Terms
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| Marker (see Lay plan) | See Lay plan above. |
| MOQ (Minimum Order Quantity) ★ | The minimum number of units a factory will produce in a single order or per style/colourway. UK CMT manufacturers typically have lower MOQs (50–200 units) than offshore factories (300–1,000+). |
| Mood board | A visual reference collection of colours, textures, images, and garments used to communicate design direction to a manufacturer or pattern cutter. Not a technical specification — a brief. |
| Needle size | The gauge of the sewing needle used in production. Wrong needle size causes puckering, skipped stitches, or fabric damage. Should be specified in the tech pack for technical fabrics. |
| OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) | A factory that produces garments to the buyer’s design and specification. The buyer owns the design; the factory manufactures it. Contrast with ODM. |
| ODM (Original Design Manufacturer) | A factory that offers its own designs for brands to choose from and label as their own. Brands select from the factory’s existing patterns or make minor modifications. Contrast with OEM. |
| OEKO-TEX Standard 100 ★ | An independent testing and certification system for textile raw materials and finished articles. A garment certified to OEKO-TEX Standard 100 has been tested and found free from harmful substances. Certification is at the fabric or garment level, not the brand. |
| Overlock stitch | A stitch that simultaneously sews the seam, trims the seam allowance, and encases the raw edge — performed by an overlocker (serger) machine. Standard finish on jersey and knitwear seams. |
| Pantone (PMS — Pantone Matching System) ★ | The global standard colour reference system used throughout textiles, print, and design. Fabric colour specifications should reference a Pantone TCX (textile) number — not the coated (C) or uncoated (U) number used in print. |
| Pantone TCX | The Textiles, Cotton, eXtended version of the Pantone system — 2,310 colours on cotton substrate, used specifically for fabric colour specification. |
| Pattern | A set of precisely shaped templates for each panel of a garment, used to cut fabric. The pattern determines the fit, construction, and proportion of the finished garment. |
| Pattern cutter | A specialist who produces or modifies a garment pattern to achieve a specific fit or design. Pattern cutting is a distinct skill from sample making. |
| PFD (Prepared For Dyeing) | Fabric that has been pre-treated to remove impurities and is ready to accept dye. Used for garment dyeing and custom colour production. |
| Pick stitching | A hand or machine stitch used decoratively along a lapel or seam edge in tailoring. Indicates premium construction in structured garments. |
| Pilling | The formation of small fibre balls on the surface of a fabric through abrasion. Susceptibility to pilling can be tested to ISO 12945 and should be specified for performance fabrics. |
| PP sample (Pre-Production sample) ★ | A sample produced from the actual bulk fabric, trims, and production processes — the final check before bulk production commences. PP sample approval is the last formal quality gate before bulk. |
| Any pattern or design applied to fabric by screen printing, digital printing, or heat transfer. The spec pack should specify print method, placement, size, and colour references. |
Q — S Terms
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| QC (Quality Control) ★ | The process of inspecting finished garments against the approved spec and AQL standards to identify and reject defective units. QC can be performed by the factory, the brand, or a third-party inspection company. |
| Quilting | A stitching pattern through multiple fabric layers — face fabric, wadding, and backing — to create a padded, textured surface. Common in outerwear and accessories. |
| Raw edge | A cut fabric edge that has not been finished — no overlock, binding, or fold. Intentionally raw edges are used as a design feature; unintentionally raw edges are a production defect. |
| Repeat (print) | The unit of a repeating pattern in a printed fabric — the size of one full pattern cycle. Larger repeats require more fabric and careful cutting to match panels. |
| Rib (knitwear) | A knit stitch structure alternating knit and purl stitches to produce a stretchy, vertically ribbed fabric. Used for cuffs, waistbands, and collar finishes. |
| Run of press | A small number of units (typically 3–10) produced at the start of bulk production to confirm the production process is correctly set up before the full run proceeds. |
| Safety stitch | A combination of an overlock stitch and a lockstitch in a single pass — provides both edge finishing and seam strength. Common in childrenswear. |
| Sampling ★ | The process of producing one or more physical versions of a garment design to evaluate fit, construction, and fabric before committing to bulk production. See also: first sample, PP sample, size set. |
| Seam allowance | The distance between the cut edge of the fabric and the line of stitching forming the seam. UK and European patterns typically use 1.5cm seam allowance. Must be specified in the tech pack. |
| Selvedge | The self-finished edge of a woven fabric — the edge produced by the loom that runs parallel to the warp threads and requires no further finishing. Used as a reference edge for grain line. |
| Size set | A sample produced in every size of the intended range, used to confirm that the grading is correct and that fit is consistent across sizes. |
| SKU (Stock Keeping Unit) | A unique identifier for each specific variant of a product — typically a combination of style, colour, and size. A single jacket style in three colours and five sizes = 15 SKUs. |
| Sloper | A basic pattern block from which more complex patterns are derived — a foundational template for a specific body type and garment category. |
| Spec sheet (Specification sheet) | A technical document listing all measurements and construction details for a garment, usually referring to a single size or a full size chart. Part of — or used interchangeably with — a tech pack. |
| Strike off ★ | A small sample length of fabric printed in the specified design and colourway, produced for approval before bulk fabric printing commences. Contrast with lab dip (which is for dyed fabric, not printed fabric). |
| Sustainability certification | Third-party verified credentials confirming a garment, fabric, or process meets defined environmental or social standards — GOTS, OEKO-TEX, Bluesign, Fair Trade, and others. |
T — Z Terms
| Term | Definition |
|---|---|
| Tech pack (Technical Package) ★ | A complete set of technical documents that communicates every aspect of a garment design to a manufacturer — including a spec sheet, construction notes, BOM, Pantone references, print artwork, label placement, and packaging requirements. The tech pack is the primary document a factory works from. |
| Thread count | In woven fabrics, the number of threads per square inch — an indicator of fabric density. In embroidery and construction, thread count refers to the weight/thickness of thread used. |
| Toile | A trial version of a garment, typically sewn in inexpensive calico or similar fabric, used to evaluate and refine a pattern before producing in the intended fabric. Common in tailoring and eveningwear. |
| Topstitch | A row of visible stitching sewn on the right side of a garment, parallel to a seam edge. Used for decoration and to hold seam allowances flat. |
| Trim | Any component of a garment other than the face fabric — buttons, zips, elastic, thread, labels, patches, rivets. All trims must be specified in the BOM. |
| Twill | A woven fabric structure characterised by diagonal parallel ribs — produced by the weft thread passing over one or more warp threads in a regular pattern. Denim, chino, and gabardine are twill weaves. |
| Understitching | A row of stitching through the facing and seam allowances, not visible from the outside, used to prevent a facing from rolling to the outside of the garment. Standard in quality tailored and structured garments. |
| Warp | The set of threads running lengthwise through a woven fabric — fixed on the loom before weaving begins. Warp threads are typically stronger than weft threads. |
| Weft | The set of threads woven across the warp in a woven fabric — the cross-grain threads. Weft direction typically has more stretch and drape than the warp direction. |
| Welt pocket | A tailored pocket with one or two fabric strips (welts) framing the pocket opening. Common in tailoring, suits, and outerwear. More complex and expensive to produce than a patch pocket. |
| WIP (Work In Progress) | Garments that have entered production but are not yet complete. WIP tracking is a factory management function that allows production status to be monitored. |
| Woven | A fabric produced by interlacing warp and weft threads at right angles. Woven fabrics do not inherently stretch (unless stretch yarns are used). Contrast with knit fabrics. |
| Yarn count | A measure of the thickness and weight of a yarn — expressed differently depending on the system used (Tex, Ne, Nm). Higher yarn count = finer yarn in most counting systems. |
| Zigzag stitch | A stitch that moves left and right in a zigzag pattern, used to finish raw edges on woven fabrics or to stitch stretch seams in jersey. |
Terms Specific to UK Clothing Manufacturing
CMT rate. In the UK market, CMT pricing is typically quoted per unit, covering all labour involved in cutting, sewing, and finishing a garment from supplied materials. UK CMT rates vary significantly by product category and complexity. A standard jersey T-shirt CMT rate may be £8–£15; a tailored jacket may be £40–£90+.
Made in Britain certification. A registered collective trademark awarded by the Made in Britain Organisation to manufacturers who can demonstrate their products are manufactured or undergo final substantial change in Britain. The mark has legal protection under the Trade Marks Act 1994. Verification at madeinbritain.org.
Harris Tweed certification. The only fabric in the world with its own Act of Parliament (Harris Tweed Act 1993). Certified by the Harris Tweed Authority via the Orb trademark. Any garment or fabric claiming Harris Tweed identity must carry the Orb certification — non-certified “tweed” claiming Harris Tweed origin is legally actionable.
UKFT (UK Fashion and Textile Association). The trade body representing UK fashion and textile businesses. UKFT membership is a useful indicator for UK manufacturer credibility checks and provides access to industry intelligence, training, and export support. Directory at ukft.org.
Real Living Wage (RLW). A voluntary wage rate set by the Living Wage Foundation based on the actual cost of living — £13.45/hour UK-wide and £14.80/hour in London as of May 2026. Over 16,000 UK employers are accredited RLW payers. Relevant for brands using UK production who wish to make ethical supply chain claims.
Garment District, London. The East London cluster of pattern cutters, sample rooms, and small-batch CMT factories concentrated historically in Hackney, Whitechapel, and Bethnal Green. A significant proportion of UK small-batch sampling is still produced in this cluster.
Leicester garment manufacturing cluster. The UK’s largest regional garment manufacturing cluster outside London — home to a significant number of CMT factories, particularly for knitwear and jersey garments. UKFT and the Textile Institute both document Leicester as a major production centre. Post-Boohoo supply chain scrutiny (2020) led to significant improvements in compliance standards among Leicester manufacturers.
For how Silk Routes approaches CMT pricing, sample production, and client onboarding, our manufacturing services page covers our process. To find out more about working with Silk Routes, find out more about Silk Routes.
FAQ
What does CMT mean in clothing manufacturing?
CMT stands for Cut, Make, Trim — a production model where the brand supplies all fabric and materials and the factory provides only the labour to cut, sew, and finish the garment. The factory charges a CMT rate per unit. CMT is the most common production model used by UK domestic manufacturers and is distinct from full-package or ODM production, where the factory also sources the materials.
What is a tech pack and why do I need one?
A tech pack (technical package) is the complete set of technical documents that communicates your garment design to a manufacturer — including a spec sheet with all measurements, construction notes, a bill of materials, Pantone colour references, print artwork, label placement, and packaging requirements. A factory cannot accurately quote or produce your garment without a complete tech pack. Sending a mood board or Pinterest image instead of a tech pack is the most common source of first-sample errors.
What is the difference between a lab dip and a strike off?
A lab dip is a small fabric swatch dyed to your specified colour reference (Pantone TCX number), produced for approval before bulk fabric dyeing proceeds. A strike off is a small length of fabric printed in your specified design and colourway, produced for approval before bulk fabric printing proceeds. Both are pre-production approvals — a lab dip applies to dyed fabrics, a strike off to printed fabrics.
What is GSM in fabric?
GSM stands for grams per square metre and is the standard unit for measuring fabric weight. Lightweight jersey is typically 140–180 GSM; midweight jersey 200–260 GSM; heavy fleece 350–450 GSM. The GSM of the fabric in your approved sample should be specified in your tech pack to ensure bulk fabric matches the sample.
What is AQL and how does it apply to clothing quality control?
AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) is a statistical sampling standard (ISO 2859) used in clothing quality inspection to determine whether a batch meets or fails quality requirements. AQL 2.5 — the most common standard for clothing — means that in a batch of a given size, a maximum number of defective units is acceptable (defined by the AQL tables). If the number of defects found in the sample exceeds the AQL threshold, the batch is rejected. Third-party inspection companies use AQL sampling as the standard methodology for pre-shipment quality checks.
Citations and Sources
[1]. UKFT — UK Fashion and Textile Association: industry terminology and manufacturing guidance. https://ukft.org/
[2]. OEKO-TEX — Standard 100 certification: substance testing and labelling at fabric and garment level. https://www.oeko-tex.com/en/our-standards/oeko-tex-standard-100
[3]. GOTS — Global Organic Textile Standard: certification criteria and scope. https://global-standard.org/
[4]. Harris Tweed Authority — Orb certification and Harris Tweed Act 1993. https://www.harristweed.org/
[5]. Made in Britain Organisation — Certification and trademark framework; Real Living Wage Foundation — RLW rates 2026. https://www.madeinbritain.org/
