Approve a colour on a laptop screen, and there’s a good chance the bulk fabric won’t match it in real light. Colour matching in clothing production runs on physical standards and measured tolerances — not screen previews — and skipping that process is one of the most common reasons brands end up rejecting an entire dye lot.
This guide covers colour matching Pantone lab dips clothing UK brands need to understand to get consistent, predictable colour from swatch to finished garment.
In this article:
- Why colour matching is one of the biggest production challenges
- The Pantone system for clothing — TCX vs TPG vs TPX
- How to specify colour correctly in your tech pack
- The lab dip process, step by step
- Understanding metamerism
- Delta E colour tolerance — what’s acceptable
- Strike offs for printed fabrics
- The colour matching mistakes that cause rejected batches
Why Colour Matching Is One of the Biggest Production Challenges
Colour is one of the hardest specifications to get exactly right in clothing production, because dye behaves differently across fibre types, dye houses, and even different batches of the same fabric. A colour that matches perfectly on one fabric can shift noticeably on another with a different fibre composition.
Digital colour references — screen previews, printed mockups — are not reliable enough for production, since screens and printers reproduce colour completely differently from dyed fibre. Physical colour standards exist specifically because colour matching cannot be trusted to a digital preview.
Colour Matching: Pantone & Lab Dips Guide
An interactive look at Pantone formats, the lab dip approval process, metamerism under different lighting, and what Delta E tolerance actually looks like.
Pantone Formats for Clothing
Not all Pantone formats are built for fabric — using the wrong one is a common source of confusion.
TCX ✓
Cotton-based swatch. The correct format for fashion and textile colour matching.
TPG
Older paper-based format, being phased out in favour of TCX.
TPX
Coated paper swatch for print and packaging — not for dyed fabric.
The Lab Dip Approval Process
Reference Provided
Pantone code + swatchFirst Lab Dip
Dye house attempts matchReview
Checked under proper lightingApprove / Revise
1–2 rounds is normalBulk Dyeing
Approved dip becomes referenceMetamerism — Same Colour, Different Light
Tap a light source to see why checking under only one condition is risky.
Simulates natural outdoor daylight. This is the most common condition used as the baseline reference for approving a colour standard.
Simulates typical fluorescent retail store lighting. A colour approved only under daylight can shift noticeably under this condition — critical for how the product actually appears on the shop floor.
Simulates warm incandescent home lighting. Relevant for how a customer sees the garment once it's home — another point where metamerism can surface.
Delta E Colour Tolerance — See the Difference
Drag the slider to see roughly how a colour difference at a given Delta E value compares to the reference swatch.
Common Colour Matching Mistakes
The Pantone System for Clothing — TCX vs TPG vs TPX
| Format | What It Is | Best Used For |
|---|---|---|
| Pantone TCX | Cotton-based physical swatch | Fashion and textile colour matching |
| Pantone TPG | Paper-based swatch (older format) | Being phased out in favour of TCX |
| Pantone TPX | Coated paper swatch | Print and packaging, not textiles |
For clothing production specifically, Pantone TCX is the relevant reference system, since it’s printed on cotton and behaves more like actual fabric than a paper swatch. Referencing a TPX code to a garment factory can cause confusion, since it’s designed for print applications rather than dyed fabric.
How to Specify a Colour in Your Tech Pack
Always reference an exact Pantone TCX code rather than a colour name — “navy” can mean several different shades depending on who’s interpreting it. Include the code prominently in your tech pack’s colourway section, not just as a passing mention.
Where possible, provide a physical swatch alongside the Pantone reference, since screen and print reproduction of Pantone codes can vary slightly between devices. A physical reference removes any ambiguity about what the target colour actually looks like.
The Lab Dip Process — Step by Step
| Step | What Happens |
|---|---|
| 1. Reference Provided | Brand supplies Pantone code and/or physical swatch |
| 2. First Lab Dip | Dye house produces a small fabric sample matching toward the reference |
| 3. Review Against Standard | Brand compares lab dip to the reference under proper lighting |
| 4. Approve or Request Revision | Lab dip is approved, or sent back with feedback for another attempt |
| 5. Bulk Dyeing | Approved lab dip becomes the reference for the full production dye lot |
What Is a Lab Dip?
A lab dip is a small, dyed fabric sample produced specifically to test whether a dye house can match your target colour before committing to bulk dyeing. It’s a cheap, fast way to catch a colour mismatch before hundreds of metres of fabric are dyed incorrectly.
How Many Rounds Are Normal?
A first lab dip rarely matches perfectly — expect at least one or two rounds of revision before a colour is fully approved, especially for less common or highly specific shades. A dye house asking for a second attempt isn’t a red flag; it’s the normal process working as intended.
How to Approve or Reject a Lab Dip
Review the lab dip against your physical reference under consistent, appropriate lighting — approving from memory or under poor lighting is a common source of colour disputes later. If the lab dip is close but not exact, give specific feedback (too warm, too dark, too saturated) rather than a general rejection.
Understanding Metamerism — Why Colour Looks Different in Different Lights
| Light Source | What It Simulates |
|---|---|
| D65 (Daylight) | Outdoor and general daylight viewing |
| TL84 / F11 (Store Lighting) | Typical retail fluorescent lighting |
| Incandescent A (Home Lighting) | Warm home lighting conditions |
Metamerism is when two colours appear to match under one light source but look different under another — a real and common problem in dyed textiles, since different dye combinations can produce visually similar colours under one light and mismatched colours under another. Checking a lab dip under only one light source, particularly daylight alone, misses this risk entirely.
Delta E Colour Tolerance — What Is Acceptable?
| Brand Positioning | Typical Delta E Tolerance |
|---|---|
| Mass Market | Around 2.0–2.5 |
| Mid-Range / Premium | Around 1.0–1.5 |
| Luxury / Critical Colour Applications | Under 1.0 |
Delta E is a numerical measurement of colour difference, calculated using a spectrophotometer rather than judged by eye alone. A Delta E of around 1.0 or lower is generally considered a tight match that’s imperceptible to most people, while anything higher becomes increasingly visible depending on the specific colour and viewing conditions.
Setting an unrealistically tight Delta E tolerance for your price point can create unnecessary production friction — matching the tolerance to your actual brand positioning, rather than defaulting to the tightest possible number, avoids rejecting commercially acceptable dye lots.
Strike Offs for Printed Fabrics — The Equivalent Process
A strike off is the printed-fabric equivalent of a lab dip — a small printed sample produced to confirm colour, placement, and scale of a pattern before committing to bulk printing. The same approval logic applies: review under proper lighting, expect at least one revision round, and don’t approve from a digital proof alone.
If you’re finalising colour specifications for your next production run, our clothing manufacturing services team can advise on realistic Delta E tolerances and lab dip timelines for your garment category.
Common Colour Matching Mistakes
Approving colour from a screen or printed mockup. Digital and print colour reproduction doesn’t reliably represent dyed fabric colour. Fix: always approve against a physical lab dip or swatch, never a screen preview alone.
Reviewing a lab dip under only one light source. A colour that matches in daylight can look completely different under store lighting, a risk metamerism testing specifically catches. Fix: check lab dips under at least two different light sources before approval.
Setting an unrealistically tight Delta E tolerance. A luxury-level tolerance on a mass-market product creates unnecessary rejected dye lots and delays. Fix: match your Delta E tolerance to your actual brand positioning and price point.
Giving vague feedback on a rejected lab dip. “Not quite right” doesn’t help a dye house correct the next attempt efficiently. Fix: give specific, directional feedback — too warm, too pale, too saturated — on every rejected round.
Assuming one approved lab dip guarantees bulk consistency. Bulk dye lots can still drift from the approved lab dip if the dye house doesn’t control the process tightly. Fix: request spectrophotometer readings against the approved standard for the actual bulk fabric, not just the original lab dip.
FAQ
What is the difference between Pantone TCX, TPG, and TPX?
Pantone TCX is a cotton-based swatch designed specifically for fashion and textile colour matching, making it the relevant format for clothing production. TPG and TPX are paper-based formats intended for print and packaging, and referencing them to a garment factory can cause confusion.
What is a lab dip in clothing production?
A lab dip is a small, dyed fabric sample produced by a dye house to test whether they can match a brand’s target colour before bulk dyeing begins. It’s a low-cost way to catch and correct colour mismatches before an entire fabric order is dyed incorrectly.
What is metamerism and why does it matter?
Metamerism is when two colours appear to match under one light source but look different under another, a common risk with dyed textiles. It matters because a lab dip approved only under daylight might visibly mismatch under retail store lighting once the product reaches shelves.
What is an acceptable Delta E tolerance for clothing?
Acceptable Delta E tolerance depends on brand positioning, with mass-market products typically allowing around 2.0–2.5, mid-range and premium brands around 1.0–1.5, and luxury or critical colour applications under 1.0. Setting the tolerance too tight for your price point can cause unnecessary production delays.
What is a strike off and how does it differ from a lab dip?
A strike off is the printed-fabric equivalent of a lab dip, used to confirm colour, placement, and pattern scale before bulk printing rather than solid dyeing. Both follow a similar approval process, requiring physical review under proper lighting rather than approval from a digital proof.
